We took a day trip from Taipei to Shifen and Houtong with our daughter — two very different little towns along the Pingxi Line, each with its own charm. Shifen for sky lanterns, Houtong for cats and lunch at a beautiful old-house café. It was a bit of a whirlwind, but absolutely worth it.
The easiest way to reach Shifen is by Taiwan Railway (TRA).
Step 1: Taipei Main Station → Ruifang Station
Step 2: Ruifang → Shifen (Pingxi Line)
If you’re planning to hop between Shifen and Houtong (or other stops along the line), consider getting the Pingxi/Shenao One-Day Pass (NT$52) at the Ruifang ticket counter for unlimited rides.
Important tip: Buy your return tickets first. The Pingxi Line trains only run about once an hour, and the small stations can get crowded. We’d strongly recommend buying your return tickets (or checking the timetable) as soon as you arrive, so you can plan your time without stress.
Sky Lanterns in Shifen
Releasing a sky lantern was the whole reason we came to Shifen, and it didn’t disappoint.
There are lantern shops everywhere along Shifen Old Street — you really can’t miss them. We picked one close to the train station. Lanterns come in different color options: a single-color lantern costs around NT$150, while a four-color one is about NT$200. Each color represents a different wish — red for health, pink for love, yellow for wealth, and so on.
The process is simple and fun: you choose your colors, the shop provides brushes and ink, and you write your wishes on each side. Our daughter had a great time painting her wishes (with a little help!). When you’re ready, the shopkeeper takes you out onto the railway tracks, heats up the lantern, and lets it go.
The best part? The shop staff were incredibly helpful — they took photos and videos of us with the lantern against the backdrop of the train tracks. It made for such a lovely memory, and we didn’t even have to ask.
We’d hoped to see a train pass through up close (the tracks run right through the middle of the old street — it’s a famous sight), but the timing didn’t work out for us. If that’s on your list, check the train schedule beforehand so you can position yourself along the tracks.
Beat the Heat
Shifen Old Street has very little shade, and it was seriously hot when we visited. If you’re coming in summer, bring water, hats, and sunscreen — heat exhaustion is a real risk, especially with little ones.
Restrooms and a Cool-Down Treat
Restrooms are scarce in Shifen, so we’d recommend stopping at the ones near the station right when you arrive. Alternatively, ducking into a café can solve that problem too.
Before heading back to the station, we grabbed ice cream from one of the shops along the old street — a perfect way to cool down. Just make sure to finish it before boarding the train!
Houtong Cat Village
From Shifen, it’s just a short train ride back toward Ruifang to reach Houtong — Taiwan’s famous cat village.
Cats Everywhere — Starting at the Station
What surprised us most was that you can meet cats inside the station itself . The moment you step off the train, you’ll spot them lounging on benches and platforms. Our daughter was thrilled before we even left the station!
Houtong is a quiet, peaceful village — a completely different vibe from the bustling energy of Shifen. The cats roam freely through narrow lanes, up stone steps, and across the famous Cat Bridge (猫橋). They’re incredibly calm and used to people, so even young children can enjoy watching them up close.
Lunch at 鳥ㄚ二宅 (Niao A Er Zhai)
Since Shifen was so crowded, we decided to wait and have lunch in Houtong instead — and we’re so glad we did. We found 鳥ㄚ二宅 (Niao A Er Zhai), a beautiful old-house café tucked into the hillside of the cat village.
The building is a renovated traditional home with exposed brick walls and wooden beams, giving it a warm, almost Kyoto-like atmosphere. We were seated inside and ordered:
台灣媽媽的炸醬拌麵 (Taiwan Mama’s Zhajiang Noodles) — NT$240. Think of it as a Taiwanese take on jajangmyeon — savory, slightly sweet minced pork sauce over noodles. Simple but delicious.QQ紅燒滷肉 (QQ Braised Pork Rice) — NT$280. Tender braised pork served over red quinoa rice with pickled sides — similar in concept to a bibimbap bowl. Really satisfying.桂花紅茶 (Osmanthus Black Tea) — NT$180. Fragrant and refreshing — a lovely Taiwanese tea.Chocolate cake for dessert — rich and homemade-tasting.
Everything had that wonderful homemade quality — nothing fancy, just really good food made with care. The prices are on the tourist side, but we felt it was well worth it for the atmosphere and quality.
The cats inside the café were a highlight too. A couple of resident cats wandered around the tables, completely relaxed and unbothered by guests. They were so gentle and accustomed to people that even our daughter could sit near them without any fuss.
Tip: The café (and other restaurants in Houtong) can get quite busy, especially on weekends. Try to arrive early for lunch to avoid a long wait.
The Journey Home
One thing to be prepared for: the journey back to central Taipei takes a while. You’ll need to take the Pingxi Line back to Ruifang, then transfer to a TRA train — and depending on timing, the connections can add up.
We ended up getting off at Songshan Station and taking an Uber back to our hotel from there, which saved us some time and hassle, especially with a tired kid in tow.
Tips for Families with Young Kids
Buy return train tickets first — the Pingxi Line runs infrequently and small stations get crowdedUse the restroom at the station — both Shifen and Houtong have limited public restroomsBring sun protection — Shifen Old Street has almost no shade; hats, sunscreen, and water are essentialEat in Houtong, not Shifen — Houtong is quieter and has better sit-down options like 鳥ㄚ二宅Check the train schedule — if you want to see a train pass through Shifen Old Street, plan around itConsider an Uber for the last leg — getting back to Taipei can take a while with transfers; hopping off at Songshan and grabbing an Uber saves time
Is It Worth It?
Absolutely. Shifen and Houtong are two of the most family-friendly day trips you can do from Taipei, and they pair perfectly together.
The sky lantern experience in Shifen is genuinely magical — our daughter still talks about watching our lantern float up into the sky. And Houtong is a quiet, gentle place where kids can interact with cats in a relaxed setting.
Our only regret? We were a bit rushed trying to fit both into one trip. Next time, we’d love to spend more time in each place — maybe even linger over a second cup of tea at 鳥ㄚ二宅 while the cats nap beside us.
Practical Info
Access TRA from Taipei Main Station → Ruifang (~40–50 min, ~NT$76) → Pingxi Line to Shifen (~30 min, ~NT$19) or Houtong (~5 min from Ruifang) Pingxi One-Day Pass NT$52 (unlimited Pingxi Line rides, buy at Ruifang Station) Sky Lantern Cost NT$150 (1 color) / NT$200 (4 colors) 鳥ㄚ二宅 (Niao A Er Zhai) Houtong Cat Village, 新北市瑞芳區柴寮路253號. Open 10:30–18:00. Minimum one drink per person. Stroller access Shifen Old Street is mostly flat; Houtong has stairs and slopes — a carrier may be easier Restrooms Limited in both areas — use station restrooms upon arrival
FAQ
Can you do both Shifen and Houtong in one day?
Yes! They’re both on the Pingxi Line, making them easy to combine. We’d suggest visiting Shifen first for lanterns, then heading to Houtong for a quieter lunch and cat-watching.
Is the sky lantern experience safe for kids?
Yes — the shop staff handle the lighting and releasing. Kids can participate in writing wishes and watching, and the staff are very experienced. Just supervise young children near the train tracks.
How often do trains run on the Pingxi Line?
About once per hour, so plan accordingly. Check the timetable at the station and buy your return tickets early.
Are the cats in Houtong friendly?
Very! The cats are well cared for by locals and completely used to visitors. They’re calm and approachable, making it a great experience for children.
Is Houtong Cat Village stroller-friendly?
The main Cat Bridge is accessible, but many of the village paths involve stairs and uneven surfaces. A baby carrier is more practical than a stroller for exploring the hillside areas.
Note: Prices, train schedules, and opening hours may change. Please check the latest information before your visit.
